Getting a tattoo while traveling can be a rewarding and fun way to commemorate any trip.
However, it is important to find the right shop and navigate the timing of the tattoo to ensure you won’t be forsaking water activities, sun exposure, or running the risk of rubbing and chaffing from backpacks and hiking boots. Don’t forget to consider upcoming transportation- an ill-placed tattoo can ruin any bus, train or plane trip and compromise the healing process.
Hanoi was the last stop on our three-week trip, so I had been on the lookout for reputable tattoo shops before our journey home. My husband and I hoped to find a good shop in the Old Quarter, but despite research we had done both before and after arriving in Hanoi, the main message we repeatedly got from online research was: don’t get tattooed in the Old Quarter. It felt like the same kind of warning you would hear about getting a tattoo on the Vegas Strip or Bourbon Street in New Orleans.
After a bit more triangulating of tattoo shops using apps for relative distance from our hotel, checking websites for integrity, and perusing instagram portfolios, we decided to check out 3 of Spades Tattoo, just a 15 minute walk from our hotel.
3 of Spades Tattoo Shop and Location
- 96 P. Hàng Mã, Hàng Mã, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 11013, Vietnam
- +84912773993
- 3ofspadestattoo.com
- Instagram:@3ofspades.tattoo
The tattoo shop is located on the famed Train Street, tucked away on the second floor of an old building. Had I not been tracking the location on my phone, I would have walked right past it as it was hidden away like the coolest speakeasy you never saw.
As we approached the corner where the shop was supposed to be, we saw the sign on the outside of the building but could not figure out where the entrance was. After stalking up and down the street, each of us scouting for an obvious door, I finally noticed a small sign sticking out of the side of the building on Hang Ma street that read ‘TATTOO’.
Had we not already experienced other businesses like this in Vietnam, I would absolutely not have walked through the walkway that we entered. And thank god for the neon sign overhead in the hallway, surely installed to keep timid would-be clients from turning around, certain that they must have made some mistake and taken a wrong turn.
The walkway was long and very narrow, and appeared to double as a prep area for the restaurant on the corner. We pressed on, fascinated by this adventure, and after climbing a set of steep cement stairs, we emerged onto a plant-filled patio with the coolest, most inviting tattoo shop in Hanoi.
At the door, we swapped our shoes for slippers, a common practice for many establishments in Vietnam, and made our way into the shop. In stark contrast to the nondescript entryway downstairs, the shop was a beautiful space- high ceilings, bright with natural light streaming in from oversized the windows on the crisp, white walls. Colonial-style beams complimented the otherwise modern shop, outfitted with black track lighting and giant mirrors. A large, elegant art installation made of paper and fabric mimicking koi fish swimming upstream, created a half arch in the middle of the room- a chic focal point of the space.
There were four tattooing stations in the space, each one personally decorated, exuding a different kind of artistry from each individual artist. The studio was clean, spacious and inviting.
Tattoo Booking and Deposit
We were greeted warmly by the woman behind the desk. We let her know we were interested in getting tattoos but just wanted to come check out the space and get a feel for prices and process. She was kind and happy to answer all of our questions.
A few binders of flash designs were on the coffee table, but it seemed that most of their work was custom-designed for each client. Nothing in the binders hooked me, so I pulled up a simple line-drawing design on my phone from Pinterest, a sitting capybara, and they said it would be no problem. I let them know basic dimensions and part of the body and they passed on the information to the available artist so he could provide a quote.
They quoted me 1.5 million VND, roughly $60 USD for my tatoo. The piece measures roughly 2.5 inches by two inches and is very simple- black line work, with no shading. The shop minimum is 1 million VND (roughly $40 USD), and a deposit of 500,000 VND is required to secure an appointment and goes toward the total of the tattoo.
My artist, Alex, took photos of my arm where I would be getting the tattoo and we had a quick discussion about placement and how it would sit in relation to the other pieces already taking up real estate on my arm.
The shop said they were able to do the tattoo later that day, but knowing I didn’t want to care for a fresh tattoo my last two days in Hanoi, they were able to shift some things around and squeeze me in for a morning appointment the day of our flight home.
For payment, the shop takes both Vietnamese Dong and credit card, though using a credit card incurs a 10% surcharge to cover fees (a 3-5% fee for card use was pretty standard across Vietnam). The woman behind the desk took my payment and started a Whatsapp thread between me and the shop, promptly sending me a message confirming my deposit payment had been received.
Getting Tattooed at 3 of Spades
We arrived just after 9 am and the shop was quiet- just me, my husband and the artist. I reveled in the peacefulness of the studio. While only one floor up, the studio felt far removed from the bustling streets below, already humming with morning activity.
After taking a few measurements, Alex got to work on creating the stencil for my tattoo.
As someone who has previously asked for multiple stencil adjustments, I was flabbergasted when he placed the stencil on my forearm and, with just one try, the size and placement felt absolutely perfect. The little capybara fit beautifully between my existing tattoos and flowed naturally with the movements of my arm no matter the position I held it.
Once he began tattooing, I was amazed at the soft touch of the needle. Granted, the tattoo was on my outer forearm, a rather low-pain point on the body tattoo-wise, but I was still blown away. “I have a gentle touch”, he said after I commented on how painless it felt.
Alex’s attention to detail, even on my simple line drawing, was impressive. Even with the stencil, he continually referenced the original image on an iPad he had on a stand beside him, ensuring he got every hair stroke on the little creature just right. Despite the short time I spent in the chair, he was excellent at communicating with me to make sure I was comfortable the entire time.
After he finished, he let the tattoo settle for about 10 minutes so the redness could dissipate. He then led me to the photo studio they created in the front of their shop and snapped some photos.
I appreciate this professional touch, especially since this pride in their work was part of what had initially drawn me to the shop when I had scrolled through their instagram during my research.
After the photos, Alex brought me back to his station, sanitized everything, then wrapped me up with a Saniderm-esque tattoo bandage. I was thrilled with this detail as it would give me an extra layer of protection for the long journey home later that evening. We had encountered other travelers with fresh tattoos on our trip who were sporting plastic wrap and tape, and I had prepared to deal with this inconvenience. Instead, I felt a huge sense of relief to help keep this lil guy safe and clean!
Aftercare, Payment and Tipping
After each tattoo, every client is given a small aftercare kit, complete with care instructions, a coupon for a future visit, and a tube of A+D ointment. I especially appreciated the touch with the A+D as a traveler.
I paid the remaining balance of my tattoo and gave Alex a cash tip. Although tipping is not mandatory or expected in Vietnam for many services, I would never feel comfortable not tipping a tattoo artist.
Tips for a tattoo artist in the US is typically 20% or more, so I would recommend using that as a baseline and adjust accordingly on the overall experience.
Final Thoughts
3 of Spades Tattoo is a clean, professional tattoo studio in Hanoi, and I truly cannot recommend it enough. Every single person we encountered at the shop was incredibly kind and patient, and had excellent communication both in person and through Whatsapp. They were flexible with my limited schedule, and went out of their way to make sure I was able to fit in my tattoo before we left Hanoi.
It genuinely felt that they cared about my experience, and that is priceless.
They were supremely respectful, and had no qualms with me getting a tattoo of an image not custom designed. I had felt sheepish for not wanting anything from their flash books and had made a self-deprecating comment for getting a tattoo that had nothing to do with Vietnam. But the woman I was consulting with gave me a big smile and said “But you are getting it in Vietnam!”. That small gesture of kindness has stuck with me as someone who has certainly experienced snobbery in tattoo shops in the past.
Later that day, I received a message on Whatsapp thanking me for my business and sending along the photos of my and my tattoo. They also requested a google review if time permits.
Based on their hundreds of 5 star reviews, it is clear that their attentive and professional care has been appreciated by many.
The 3 of Spades website is easy to navigate and their Instagram is an explosive gallery of the artistry and skill of the team. From their posts, you can see that these artists enjoy each other, their work, and collaborating with their clients. This warmth is very apparent just being in the studio and adds exponentially to the experience of getting a tattoo from them.
I can see from Alex’s other work that his talents far exceeded the demands of my little tattoo. However, he treated my piece with as much attention and care as any custom design. I felt incredibly well taken care of, and I cannot wait to commission something larger in the future where I can take true advantage of his talents.
